eat: How a Cheese Goes Extinct, The New Yorker
Food writer Ruby Tandoh takes a look at the fragile world of small-scale regional cheese-making and the inevitable extinction of some of Britain’s best varieties. When eccentric archaeologist turned cheese-maker Mary Holbrook died in 2019 with no family or expert trainees to take over the business, four award-winning goat’s milk cheeses, Old Ford, Cardo, Sleightlett, and Tymsboro, disappeared with her. The specialist knowledge and finely balanced alchemy behind these incredible cheeses requires an immense amount of commitment and support from makers and suppliers alike. Tandoh speaks to some of the industry’s leading lights to find out how they’re preserving the tradition.