The stripe made its way up the sartorial ladder thanks to the Edwardian pursuit of new sports, where its visibility proved a boon for jockeys and cyclists, and via the early 20th century vogue for the holiday resorts of Deauville and Biarritz. Visiting gentry adopted the clothing of local fishermen as a louche tribute to this relaxed climes, and in 1913, Coco Chanel opened her first boutique in Deauville interpreting luxury takes on maritime utilitarianism.
It is said that the horizontal barré stripe made the final leap to formal via notorious clotheshorse and "King Of The Dudes" Evander Berry Wall, the American ex pat socialite. Settled into a routine of shuttling between his tailors in Paris and hotels on the fashionable Atlantic riviera, the European social elite were delighted by the bright, colourful countenance of the "Last of the Great Edwardian Dandies" as Cecil Beaton referred to him. His Paris home at the Hotel Meurice was a short walk from his shirtmaker, who would run up his bold patterns and signature stripes.